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The Jewelry District

Episode 40: Gendered Watches And Lab-Grown Sustainability

The Jewelry District

JCK

Fashion & Beauty, Business News, Business, Arts, News

9.9 • 25 Ratings

🗓️ 16 March 2021

⏱️ 20 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/)talk about gender in the watch industry, secondhand jewelry and watches, and a new sustainability certification for diamonds. Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob take a second to review this busy month.02:15 Victoria notices the watch industry’s disapproving reaction to the category of women’s watches.09:00 Gendered products are outdated. Rob and Victoria explore how marketing such products has failed.12:13 Secondhand jewelry and watch sites are plentiful. Rob talks about authentication and sustainability.14:35 Rob recently wrote about the language surrounding lab-grown diamonds, and discusses the new criteria a producer must meet to be considered eco-friendly. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap A Busy March It’s mid-March! That means it's daylight saving time. We’ve set our clocks forward in preparation for more hours of sunshine. But that’s not the only marker of time. This time last year, the first COVID-19 lockdowns were just starting across America. We’ve come a long way since then. Another March event? Women’s History Month. And that takes Victoria’s mind to watches. Women Aren’t MonolithicVictoria wrote an article for the New York Times for International Women’s Day both this year and last. When she wrote last year’s article, she spoke to Kathleen McGivney, CEO of RedBar Group, who told her there are so many categories for men’s watches, but when it comes to women’s watches, there is just one category. She made the point that women are not monolithic, and the industry has been missing that fact. This year, Hodinkee published a piece (https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/all-watches-should-be-unisex-and-heres-why) making the argument that all watches should be unisex. The Failure of Watch AdvertisementsRob says when you go online, watches are advertised as these macho, masculine pieces. Victoria agrees: In advertising aimed toward women, models are scantily dressed and posing in their watches. In advertising aimed toward men, men are skiing, climbing mountains, and using their watches as tools, not just as accessories. Advertising for women just shows how they can be sexier, which doesn’t necessarily reflect what women actually want. The industry's marketing toward women is outdated. In other watch-related news, Rob reports that Hodinkee bought Crown & Caliber, the secondhand watch site. He’s interested in Hodinkee's move from a watch site into the e-commerce realm. Secondhand Sites Rob wonders about secondhand watch sites: Are there too many of them? Can the market handle them all? Victoria counters by asking when the jewelry industry will follow suit. Rob points out that the real problem with secondhand jewelry sites is getting the pieces authenticated. eBay is one place trying to grown its certification processes. Rob says people's desire for secondhand jewelry and watches comes from their interest in sustainability. Lab-Grown Language On the topic of sustainability and eco-friendliness,

Transcript

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0:00.0

Welcome to the Jewelry District, a podcast by J.C.K.

0:13.8

Today, Rob Bates and Victoria Gamalski talk about gender and watches, Hodinky, and a new sustainability certification for diamonds.

0:30.5

Hey, everyone. Welcome to the jewelry district. This is Victoria Gimelski, editor-in-chief of JCPK

0:37.2

and JCP Online.com, calling in from

0:40.0

Rainy Los Angeles. You heard that right? And I'm with?

0:43.1

It's Rob Bates News Director of JCP and JCP Online.

0:46.7

It's mid-March, and by the time people are listening to this, we'll have had daylight savings,

0:51.2

which I feel like already a quarter of the year is nearly down. I don't know how

0:55.3

that happened. And it's been one year of COVID. One year of the quarantine lifestyle. I've hit a

1:01.3

stride. I really hate it, but I'm kind of used to it. Yeah. Well, I'm just glad we didn't know then what we

1:07.4

know now. I think it would have been hard to move forward. But, you know, I think we'd also be surprised at how well people have adapted. We've talked all year about

1:14.5

people's resilience and their ability to act on the fly and reorganize and also how well

1:20.4

jewelry has done, how surprisingly well it's done in light of everybody being stuck at home and

1:25.8

searching for these gifts of meaning and value.

1:28.4

So assuming the stimulus does what people expect and, you know, this should be a very good year.

1:35.5

Probably the only trend is that this stimulus is kind of geared more towards the middle class.

1:40.9

So it should perhaps be a different kind of customer coming in than has been

1:44.8

spending in the past. You know, we'll have to see. I think this is going to be, it's definitely

1:50.9

shaping up to be a good year. That said, you don't want to jinx it. Yeah. Well, so all that's good.

1:56.0

And another thing, of course, that I think about in March is that we're in the midst of women's

2:00.9

History Month and we just celebrate International Women's Day.

2:04.5

Right.

...

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