Hello, friends, and welcome to the Nugget Climbing Podcast. This is your host, Stephen Dimmit.

My guest today is Steen Christopherson. Steen is a physiotherapist, climbing coach, author, and

world-class climber. He's climbed up to 9A sport routes, and I believe V-14. I know he's climbed

at least V-13. I think he's climbed V14 as well.

Very, very strong. He's in his 40s now and has kids and is still climbing at a really high level.

Steen's been on the podcast once before with his friend Martin Mo Broughton to talk about their first book,

The Climbing Bible. And now he is back to talk about his new book, The Climbing Bible,

Managing Injuries. So, of course, preventing injuries, managing injuries was a big part of this

conversation. But Steen is such a good coach and such a good climber that I had to ask him

some of the burning questions that have been at the top of my mind recently. I wanted to know

how much hard climbing

is reasonable for most people. Should we be climbing hard on the tension board or the moon board

or limit bouldering three or four times a week or is that way too much? How much is necessary to

actually get stronger? And is there a sweet spot between climbing

hard enough and training hard enough to get stronger while avoiding risking injury? So we talked a lot

about that. We talked a lot about training load and some of his favorite session format so that

he's balancing his week and not overdoing the hard stuff.

And it was really cool. Also, we did a deep dive on poly injury. So if you have a poli injury,

this episode is a great resource. We talked about how long to rest after the injury, how to load

it, when to start loading it, when to climb again, how to introduce hard climbing and crimping

and things like that,

and hopefully it's really helpful. And with that, I think we'll dive in. Please enjoy some of the

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