EP 143: Matt Heyliger — Tissue Capacity vs. Biomechanics, Why Mobility Comes Before Strength, and the Eyeball Story

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

Steven Dimmitt, Fitness, American, The Struggle Climbing Show, The Struggle, @Thenuggetclimbing, Trad Climbing, Smith Rock, Climbing, The Climbing Nugget, Education, Power Company, Alpine Climbing, Dirtbag State Of Mind, Nugget, Nuggetclimbing, Climbing Podcast, The Nugget Climbing Podcast, The, Lattice, Climbing Nugget, Dirtbag Diaries, Testpiece, Health & Fitness, Sharp End, Sport Climbing, Gold, The American Climbing Project, Project, Climbing Training, Training, Lattice Training, Climbing Gold, Enormocast, Climbing History, Training Beta, Dirtbag, Self-improvement, Training For Climbing, Wilderness, Alex Honnold, Nugget Climbing Podcast, Yosemite, Nugget Climbing, Careless, Sports, Rock Climbing, Runout, Thenuggetclimbing, Steven Dimmit, Climber, The Nugget, The Nugget Climbing, Bouldering, Talk, Struggle, For The Love Of Climbing, Climb, Nugget Podcast

4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 7 November 2022

⏱️ 154 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Matt Heyliger, DPT is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve talked to when it comes to climbing-related injuries and rehab. We talked about climbing together in Ten Sleep, how he is currently helping me treat carpal tunnel syndrome, how to achieve long-term health and performance, his skiing injury and the eyeball story, top recommendations for climbers, lessons from living in Spain, and much more.

Transcript

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0:00.0	This episode is brought to you by Rhino Skin Solutions, my go-to when it comes to taking care of my skin.
0:08.7	And I have a few go-to products that I love from Rhino.
0:12.9	The first one is the performance cream.
0:14.7	I use that to keep my skin dry when I'm climbing in warm or humid conditions.
0:19.8	It's a game changer.
0:20.8	It makes a really big difference.
0:22.5	And I love performance because it keeps my skin dry without making it too dry. It doesn't crack. It doesn't get
0:28.5	glassy. The performance cream keeps my hands from sweating, but keeps my skin pliable, which is a really
0:34.4	awesome combination. I also use the repair cream most evenings to help my
0:38.8	skin heal between sessions on my bouldering projects or right now on my sport climbing projects
0:43.6	here in Utah. So whether you have dry, glassy skin or sweaty skin and have trouble keeping
0:48.7	chalk on your hands like I do, Rhino Skin Solutions has products that are designed just for you
0:53.6	and your skin type.
0:55.1	Check out my episode with founder Justin Brown, episode 22 of The Nugget, to learn more about which products are right for you and how to dial in your skin for an upcoming performance season.
1:06.3	That's a super valuable episode if you want to try out rhino products episode 22 of the nugget.
1:12.8	If you want to level up your skin game, head over to rhinoskinsolutions.com and enter code
1:17.9	nugget at checkout for 20% off your next order. That's rhinoskinsolutions.com. Use code nugget
1:25.0	at checkout for 20% off and start taking better care of your precious skin today.
1:32.3	This episode is also brought to you by Grasshopper Climbing.
1:35.8	One of the best things I ever did for my own climbing was to build a climbing wall in my garage.
1:41.6	It solved so many challenges with my training. It was so easy to stick to a
1:46.3	consistent training schedule. I always had really high quality sessions on my own wall without any
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