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Folger Shakespeare Library: Shakespeare Unlimited

Celebrating Elizabethan Cooking, with Sam Bilton

Folger Shakespeare Library: Shakespeare Unlimited

Folger Shakespeare Library

Arts

4.7837 Ratings

🗓️ 16 December 2025

⏱️ 35 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

What did people really eat in Shakespeare’s England? In her new book, Much Ado About Cooking, food historian Sam Bilton uncovers the vibrant and surprising world of early modern cuisine—where sugar was locked away like treasure, fresh salads were everyday fare, and a “banquet” meant a “post-feast after party” dessert course. Bilton brings to life the flavors behind Shakespeare’s food references: mince pies, herb-packed green sauces, saffron-brightened tarts, and even whimsical dishes crafted to look like something else entirely. These foods reveal a world shaped by global trade, humoral medicine, and a delight in spectacle. In this episode, Bilton discusses how cooking, dining, and food imagery can open a new window onto Shakespeare’s plays and the people who lived, ate, and celebrated in his time. From the Shakespeare Unlimited podcast. Published December 16, 2025. © Folger Shakespeare Library. All rights reserved. This episode was produced by Matt Frassica. Garland Scott is the executive producer. It was edited by Gail Kern Paster. We had help with web production from Paola García Acuña. Leonor Fernandez edits our transcripts. We had technical help from Hamish Brown in Stirling, Scotland, and Voice Trax West in Studio City, California. Final mixing services provided by Clean Cuts at Three Seas, Inc. Sam Bilton is a food historian, author and presenter of the award-winning “Comfortably Hungry” and “A is for Apple” podcasts. She has written books on the history of gingerbread, saffron and chocolate, and writes articles on food history for a variety of print and online publications. Sam has also hosted several Shakespeare-themed supper clubs over the years. You can find out more details about Sam on her website: sambilton.com.

Transcript

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0:00.0

From the Folger Shakespeare Library, this is Shakespeare Unlimited.

0:07.0

I'm Farah Karim Cooper, the Folger Director.

0:11.0

For many families, the holidays revolve around food.

0:17.0

Perhaps in your family, you see the same recipes every year, like green bean casserole, gingerbread cookies, or eggnog.

0:26.5

Some we can't wait to taste each year, and others might be ready for retirement.

0:33.1

According to food historian Sam Bilton, if you're looking to liven up your holiday table,

0:38.4

you should consider adding an Elizabethan dish. Maybe try a carbonato, a veal, a mince pie, or a pear frangipane tart.

0:50.5

In her new book, Much Adieu About Cooking, Billton explores the surprisingly varied diet of early modern England.

0:58.9

Bilton's previous books covered the histories of chocolate, saffron, and gingerbread.

1:04.2

She's also the host of the podcast, Comfortably Hungry.

1:08.4

Here's Sam Bilton in conversation with Barbara Bogue.

1:15.1

There is a lot of food, it turns out, in Shakespeare's plays. I mean, they're just, right?

1:21.3

There's banquets and feasts and endless food metaphors. Yeah, it's actually a wealth of food in his plays. And you don't really

1:32.6

think about it until you start looking for it. That's the thing. It sort of glosses over it,

1:38.3

almost when you're watching a play. You don't necessarily think, oh, that's a food reference,

1:42.5

but there is a lot of food in his plays.

1:45.9

Yeah, that's true. It does. It just seems to be like a kind of scene setting.

1:50.2

And as I was reading your book, I was thinking, oh, there's so many quotes that are so wonderful that I didn't really pay that much attention to in the theater or while reading.

1:59.0

And for instance, one of my favorite ones is,

2:01.1

let the sky rain potatoes, let it thunder to the tune of green sleeves, hail kissing comfits

2:08.3

and snow. Is it eringoes? Eringoes, yes. Yeah, which is what? Marangs? I don't know what that is.

2:16.2

No, aringas. It's not marangs. It would be nice if know what that is. No, it's not marangs.

...

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