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Women Who Travel | Condé Nast Traveler

A Palestinian American Chef on Creating Community Through Food

Women Who Travel | Condé Nast Traveler

Condé Nast Traveler

Society & Culture, Places & Travel

4.4636 Ratings

🗓️ 3 October 2024

⏱️ 33 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Food has the power to forge connections, and for Palestinian American chef Reem Assil that means using the flavors, aromas, and hospitality of Arab cooking to strengthen and grow her community in Oakland. Reem chats with Lale about her visionary bakery Reems, her family’s Palestinian and Syrian legacies, the surreal experience of winning a James Beard award, and her own personal ties with Gaza.

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Transcript

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0:00.0

Hi there, I'm Lale Arakoglu, and this is another the conflict in Gaza started.

0:31.9

I'm chatting today with activist, chef and Oakland restaurant owner and baker,

0:36.7

Riem Asil.

0:38.6

Her vision restore, Reims, evokes an Arab Street Corner bakery.

0:44.0

Arab hospitality is central to her mission to create a community restaurant.

0:53.3

When you envision bread and bread bakeries, you always think European bakeries.

0:58.6

That's the first thing that comes to, at least to my mind, my colonized mind, as I would say.

1:04.5

So I was just really fascinated when I became obsessed with baking, that learning the history of bread.

1:12.3

When humankind went from just being gatherers and hunters

1:16.9

to actually cultivating wheat and turning it into flour,

1:22.7

and then taking that flour and mixing it with water,

1:25.8

that was from my region of the world. I mean, in any way,

1:29.7

like bread for me is life. And so it became kind of a story tell, like a way for me to really go

1:37.7

back to my roots and discover my history. And when you think of the bakery, from that perspective,

1:43.8

the bakery is king, from, the bakery is king.

1:45.5

From even the most remote villages in the Arab world, there's like the post office and the bakery.

1:52.7

You know, it's that important.

1:53.8

So I think from that perspective as an Arab and as a Palestinian in particular, being able to trace back the lifeline of my history

2:03.5

through the bread was really important.

2:11.7

When I went to the Arab world and saw the bakery, it's just so full of life, you know,

2:17.0

like you wouldn't even know

2:18.4

that there was political turmoil

...

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