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The Economics of Everyday Things

95. Airplane Food

The Economics of Everyday Things

Freakonomics Network

Business

4.81.2K Ratings

🗓️ 9 June 2025

⏱️ 20 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Everyone loves to complain about it — but preparing a meal that tastes good at 35,000 feet is harder than you might think. Zachary Crockett will have the fish.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Over the course of her career as a chef, Molly Brandt has had all kinds of prestigious jobs.

0:12.6

I basically worked in every part of the restaurant industry from large-scale hotels to private hotels,

0:20.2

Michelin-star restaurants, to cruise lines, to my own catering business.

0:25.6

But today, she works on dishes that aren't often in the spotlight.

0:31.1

I am the innovation chef for North America for Gate Group.

0:35.3

Gate Group is the parent company of Gate Gourmet, one of the largest in-flight catering

0:40.4

companies. It makes food that's served on airplanes all over the world. When you hear the

0:46.3

words airplane and food in the same sentence, you might think of rubbery meat, flavorless pasta,

0:52.8

and wilted salad served on a plastic tray.

0:56.3

Airline food is the butt of all the jokes, right? And I fully understand that. But it doesn't

1:02.6

have to be that way. We want to move the needle in airline catering. We want to make it a little

1:07.7

bit more interesting. But making food that tastes good at 35,000 feet is harder than it might seem.

1:15.2

We're fully cooking, we're chilling down, and then plating cold.

1:19.9

And then it goes up into the aircraft and it gets heated up again.

1:23.6

That makes it very challenging to make food, let's say, multi-dimensional.

1:33.5

Every second counts. I know it sounds cliche, but in this business, we always have to be on time.

1:39.7

We always have to be there when we're supposed to. The food, the napkins, the glasses, all of that

1:46.5

has to be perfect out of the kitchen. For the Freakonomics Radio Network, this is the

1:53.0

economics of everyday things. I'm Zachary Crackett. Today, airplane food. To understand why modern day airline food is, well, the way it is,

2:05.1

you first have to understand how food ended up on planes to begin with.

2:10.9

Early commercial airplanes in the 1920s generally accommodated fewer than 20 people

2:16.3

and couldn't handle much extra weight.

...

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