70. Talking Smell of Scents Without Sense of Smell (w/ Perfumer Ugo Charron & Congenital Anosmic Emma Dancourt)
Perfume Room
Emma Vernon
4.9 • 619 Ratings
🗓️ 18 October 2022
⏱️ 69 minutes
🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS
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Summary
A perfumer and a person with congenital anosmia walk into a bar...
What ensues? A multi-sensorial fragrance created around everything BUT smell. Together Mane Junior Perfumer Ugo Charron and Journalist Emma Dancourt, who lives with congenital anosmia (meaning she has never smelled), set out on a most challenging endeavor: to create Emma’s signature scent. How do you capture someone’s essence in fragrant form when said person cannot smell? Well as you’ll hear in this episode, smelling well (or at all, for that matter) and smelling good can indeed be mutually exclusive. Hear first from Ugo about his path to perfumery, then Emma about her experiences living with anosmia, and then the duo as they discuss the intricate and oftentimes difficult road to creating Umema, Emma's signature scent. PLUS, ARE YOU KIKI OR BOUBA? FIND OUT!
FRAGS MENTIONED:
Atelier Materi Iris Ebène, Maison Crivelli Iris Malikhân, Bottega Veneta, Serge Lutens Daim Blond, Memo Irish Leather, Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena, Dedcool Blonde 03, Umema, Paco Rabanne Black XS, Armani Privé Cuir Noir, Shiseido Feminité du Bois, The Zoo Tubereuse Organique, Snif Dead Dinosaur, Guerlain L’Heure Bleu, Lancôme Poême
FOLLOW UGO: @ugoartperfume
FOLLOW EMMA: @emmanuelledancourt
FOLLOW PERFUME ROOM: @perfumeroompod (IG) @emma_vern (TT)
Transcript
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| 0:00.0 | Welcome to the perfume room. Hopefully you cannot hear the weird ringing that is happening in the |
| 0:17.1 | background of this recording. They are drilling right outside of my apartment. Such a joy. |
| 0:22.3 | Love it. New York City. The city where Emma never sleeps. Anyway, my scent of the day today is Iris |
| 0:28.1 | from Atene Matteri, and I had heard that this was a smoky iris that I would absolutely love, |
| 0:33.7 | that I needed to try. And that's why I was very excited to get my hands on the Discovery kit from Twisted Lily this morning. And rather than try on blotter first, I just |
| 0:42.3 | went for it. I put it straight on my skin. And you know what? I'm enjoying it. It is a leathery, |
| 0:46.9 | balsamic, powdery, iris scent. And in the initial spray, it actually sort of reminded me |
| 0:53.0 | of Iris Melican from Maison Cveli, but that was only the |
| 0:57.3 | very beginning because where the heart of that one goes vanilla. This one goes much more leathery |
| 1:03.8 | and suede-like, almost like a softer version of Boteca Veneta or Serge Luton dame blonde. |
| 1:10.7 | It kind of evokes a feeling of smoked makeup. |
| 1:13.4 | And like I said, I am enjoying it. I wouldn't say it is my favorite in this sort of overarching |
| 1:18.4 | iris leather genre, but it's up there. But with that said, let me tell you some that I do |
| 1:24.0 | absolutely adore. I think my number one in that category would be Memo Irish |
| 1:28.5 | leather because it has this matte note that adds some warmth, something vegetal. It feels a little |
| 1:34.0 | bit more round. You still really get that iris and leather quality. This one was actually part of |
| 1:39.1 | the custom twist of the lily discovery set that I curated, which I will say three of the five |
| 1:43.6 | cents in there are iris |
| 1:44.9 | forward fragrances, if you can tell where my preferences lie. Some other sort of iris leather |
| 1:49.4 | sense I enjoy. If you want a colder, more leathery iris, I love Edis de venustis Iris Nazarina. |
| 1:55.3 | And if you want something that goes a little frutier, a little more floral, dead cool blondeo |
| 1:59.4 | three has a similar quality. Do you hear this? |
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