I'm not new to Virginia Trails.

I'm not new to Virginia Trails.

I try to keep things simple, stick to blazes, leave the place better than I found it,

and turn around if something feels wrong.

McAfee Knob had been on my list for years, but I always went on weekends and got stuck in lines on the slab.

I wanted to see it without the crowd.

Mid-October looked perfect.

Weekday.

Leaf color at peak.

A light rained the night before to settle the dust.

I parked at the route 311 lot before first light, around 6.10 a.m., drank lukewarm coffee and shouldered a small pack.

I had a folded paper map in my chest pocket, a thin shell, a first aid kit, water, and trekking

poles. I told myself I'd be back at the car by early afternoon. The plan was an easy push-up

the Appalachian Trail to the Overlook, maybe sit on the ledge for 10 minutes,

and head down before any afternoon showers built over Kataba Valley.

The parking lot was quiet.

One other car sat under the streetlight, windows fogged.

By the time I crossed the road and stepped into the trees, the last trace of highway noise faded,

and the air changed. It had that damp, sour smell you get after a hard rain on leaf litter, heavy,

not fresh. I clicked my headlamp off after the first quarter mile and let my eyes adjust.

The trail was what I expected, rudy sections, water bars, and stretches where the tread was

armored with flat stones. The white blazes were clear. Maples and oaks were at peak,

...