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I'll Drink to That! Wine Talk

488: Erin and the Volcano

I'll Drink to That! Wine Talk

Levi Dalton

Levi Dalton, Spain, Terroir, Napa Valley, Winemaker, Red Wine, Food, Burgundy, Personal Journals, Restaurant, Australia, Sommelier, Journalist, Portugal, Vineyard, Piemonte, Grape, Interview, Arts, Society & Culture, White Wine, Loire Valley, Champagne, Sicilia, Austria, Tuscany, Conversation, Hobbies, Wine Business, Leisure, Bordeaux, Sonoma, Feedpodcast, Wine, Germany, Author

4.81K Ratings

🗓️ 25 December 2021

⏱️ 112 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Erin Scala explores the wines of Pico Island, a part of the Portuguese Azores in the Atlantic Ocean.


Erin puts on sturdy boots and ventures to the Azores to explore mysterious vineyards and ancient lava stone walls in view of the giant volcano on Pico Island. She explores grape varieties grown on Pico, such as Arinto dos Açores, Terrantez do Pico, and Verdelho, and describes the wines made from them. She also details local traditions associated with winemaking on the island, as well as the geography of the place and its history.


Erin speaks with several different people who live and work on Pico today, leading a tour to many of the top wine producer addresses on the island. In the process, she also goes into specifics about what some of the top producers are up to in regards to topics like oxidation, reduction, pressing, and wine aging, touching on the wide range of wines on made on the island. Erin finds out about some of the distinctive vineyard practices on the island. She also gives a sense of some of the different personalities amongst the winemakers and vine growers. In the process, Erin reveals the renaissance of winemaking that has occurred in recent years on the island, as well as explaining what occurred to send vine growing into decline there many decades ago.


Across this episode, Erin interweaves the culture, context, and history of this area of Portugal into the survey of the wines there. Listeners will hear about the distinct cheese of the island, the spiritual significance of the soups there, the effects of the vineyard walls, the impact of the whaling industry on Pico, and "The Year of the Noise". More than a sense of place, Erin also conveys a sense of the sublime. She takes you to some of the hardest vineyards to farm on Planet Earth, and gives you a fantastic sense of why it is important to do so.


This episode features commentary from (listed in order of appearance):


Vanda Supa, Director of Environment and Climate Change of Pico

Monica Silva Goulart, Architectural Expert of the Pico Island Vineyards

Paulo Machado, Insula and Azores Wine Company

Dr. Joy Ting, Enologist at the Winemaker's Research Exchange

António Maçanita, Azores Wine Company

Catia Laranjo, Etnom

André Ribeiro and Ricardo Pinto, Entre Pedras

Lucas Lopez Amaral (translated by Paulo Machado), Adega Vitivinícola Lucas Amaral

Tito Silva (translated by Fortunato Garcia), Cerca dos Frades

Jose Eduardo and Luisa Terra, Pocinho Bay

Fortunato Garcia, Czar Winery

Bernardo Cabral, Picowines Co-op

Filipe Rocha, Azores Wine Company

Christina Cunha (for her uncle Leonardo da Silva), Santo Antonio Carcarita

Marco Faria, Curral Atlantis Winery

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Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

I'll drink to that where we get behind the scenes of the Beverage Business.

0:04.8

I'm Levy Dalton.

0:05.8

I'm Aaron Scala.

0:06.8

And here's our show today. Did you know there is a huge volcano in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean and

0:28.8

that all around the base of the island these insane wines are farmed and by insane I mean some of the most

0:34.4

pleasantly distinct wines I've ever tasted from the most extreme vineyards I've

0:38.7

ever seen and mind you I'm someone who has actually slipped down the slates of the Ursa

0:43.2

Gertz-Garton. I've seen lightning from the Rapsani vineyards on Mount Olympus.

0:46.4

I just missed a mudslide on the way to a vineyard in Santa Cruz.

0:49.2

In Central Otago, I got sick on that hairpin turn on the crown range.

0:52.4

I've been stung and bitten and cut by just

0:54.6

about everything you can in a vineyard and I've had to avoid the occasional bear, large

0:58.7

cat, and snake. But the vineyards on this volcano set a new level of vineyard extreme that was difficult for me to process.

1:06.0

The island, Pico Island, was once world famous for dry white wines and a passamento style wines called Passado.

1:14.7

There was a big wine heyday about 180 years ago and before.

1:18.4

Then all of these wild things happened and the unique vineyards of Pico went mostly offline for over a century.

1:24.5

Most of these historic vineyards have been sleeping until today when we find Pico

1:29.7

about a decade into a wine renaissance and the whole story about this island is so far. a surrounding waters their playground to the vines that pretty much grow in salt water.

1:44.1

You'll find small pyramids all around the island, ancient ruins that wind through the

1:48.5

jungle, and a history that takes us from the courts of Russian czars to Australia.

1:53.0

Also, the more recent volcanic eruptions there

1:55.7

have launched a rich culinary tradition about soup.

...

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