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I'll Drink to That! Wine Talk

485: Robert Vifian and Stories from the Tan Dinh Wine Cellar

I'll Drink to That! Wine Talk

Levi Dalton

Levi Dalton, Spain, Terroir, Napa Valley, Winemaker, Red Wine, Food, Burgundy, Personal Journals, Restaurant, Australia, Sommelier, Journalist, Portugal, Vineyard, Piemonte, Grape, Interview, Arts, Society & Culture, White Wine, Loire Valley, Champagne, Sicilia, Austria, Tuscany, Conversation, Hobbies, Wine Business, Leisure, Bordeaux, Sonoma, Feedpodcast, Wine, Germany, Author

4.81K Ratings

🗓️ 2 April 2021

⏱️ 78 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Robert Vifian is the chef and co-owner of Tan Dinh Restaurant, located in Paris, France.


Robert was born in Vietnam in 1948, and lived in Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) as a child, experiencing the effects of the Tet Offensive firsthand. He and his family are French, and he moved to Paris, eventually joining his parents there. Robert's mother founded Tan Dinh Restaurant in 1968, and later Robert joined her in the kitchen there. Robert then took over as Chef of that restaurant in 1978. As the 1970s moved in the 1980s, the restaurant became popular with artists, actors, and other cultural types, and became both a chic spot to dine and a destination for wine aficionados.


Robert became interested in both cuisine and wine, and was soon searching out rare bottles, organizing private tastings, teaching in a wine school, and visiting cellars in Burgundy and Bordeaux. He visited producers such as Domaine Coche-Dury each year for many years, and developed a lot of familiarity with the wines of Domaine Comtes Lafon, Domaine Georges Roumier, and Domaine Hubert Lignier, tasting every vintage of each for several decades. He shares his reflections and thoughts about this producers in the interview. He also discusses Henri Jayer and Anne-Claude Leflaive, and their wines.


Robert also developed a lot of familiarity with Right Bank Bordeaux, specifically Pomerol. And Robert had close friendships with oenologists like Jean-Claude Berrouet and Michel Rolland, as well as wine critics like Robert Parker, Jr., and those friendships lended support to his experiences of Bordeaux. He recalls those relationships in the interview, and shares his views on each person. He also discusses aspects of what he learned about Pomerol over the years.


Robert had a friendship and a working relationship with the late Steven Spurrier during the time that Spurrier lived in Paris. Robert recalls the friendship and his different experiences with Spurrier in this interview. He also discusses the California wines that he learned about as a result of his acquaintance with Spurrier, dating back to The Judgement of Paris tasting in 1976.


This interview follows the Paris wine scene from the 1970s until the present, and encompasses thoughts on both benchmark wine regions of France and key producers from those places, across the same decades.


This episode also features commentary from:


Steven Spurrier, formerly a Consulting Editor for "Decanter" Magazine

Becky Wasserman-Hone, Becky Wasserman & Co.

Christian Moueix, Etablissements Jean-Pierre Moueix

See Privacy Policy at https://art19.com/privacy and California Privacy Notice at https://art19.com/privacy#do-not-sell-my-info.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

I'll drink to that where we get behind the scenes of the beverage business.

0:05.4

I'm Levy Dalton.

0:06.4

I'm Erin Scala and here's our show today. Oh, Before the pandemic I met with Chef Robert Vifian at Tandin, his restaurant

0:30.7

located near the Eiffel Tower and the Rodin Museum in Paris.

0:35.4

Tandin, a Vietnamese restaurant in the cultural center of France has operated for over 50 years

0:42.4

and was originally opened by Robert's mother in 1968.

0:47.0

Robert joined her in the kitchen in the early 1970s when he was still a young man in his 20s and then took over the restaurant full time as

0:55.1

chef owner in 1978.

0:58.3

Before then he made a movie, played bass guitar, and survived the Tet offensive while living in Saigon.

1:05.0

Robert was born in Vietnam in 1948 and lived there as a child.

1:10.0

When we recorded this interview he was approaching the age of 70 and planning his first ever return visit to the country of his childhood.

1:20.0

Beginning around the 1980s, Tandin became a restaurant frequented by actors and artists.

1:27.0

People like Marguerite de Ross, Bertrand Tavernier, may he rest in peace, and quite a few Americans in Paris like Owen Wilson and Andy McDowell.

1:36.0

It's a small restaurant, the kind where the owner both cooks your meal and opens your bottles of wine.

1:42.0

And I do say bottles and not bottles. and opens your bottles of wine.

1:42.6

And I do say bottles and not bottle,

1:45.8

because Tandin is a place of pilgrimage

1:48.0

for many wine aficionados

1:49.8

and no one would go there to try just one wine.

1:53.0

The restaurant wine cellar, which I was lucky enough to visit with Robert's brother Freddie,

1:58.0

is absolutely and completely packed with bottles in every possible place and direction,

2:03.9

and it is in fact the only cellar I have ever been in

...

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