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I'll Drink to That! Wine Talk

482: Lorenzo Accomasso and Barolo from the War Until Now

I'll Drink to That! Wine Talk

Levi Dalton

Levi Dalton, Spain, Terroir, Napa Valley, Winemaker, Red Wine, Food, Burgundy, Personal Journals, Restaurant, Australia, Sommelier, Journalist, Portugal, Vineyard, Piemonte, Grape, Interview, Arts, Society & Culture, White Wine, Loire Valley, Champagne, Sicilia, Austria, Tuscany, Conversation, Hobbies, Wine Business, Leisure, Bordeaux, Sonoma, Feedpodcast, Wine, Germany, Author

4.81K Ratings

🗓️ 4 February 2021

⏱️ 97 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Lorenzo Accomasso is a vintner in the La Morra area of Italy's Piemonte region. He has been releasing Barolo and other wines under the Accomasso label for several decades.


Lorenzo discusses the increased interest in Barolo and in the wines of the Piemonte that has occurred over the last couple of decades, as well as the increased planting of vineyards in La Morra. Lorenzo talks about helping his parents at the winery in the post-World War II years. He contrasts the current situation for the wines with the period of the 1960s, when people were leaving the countryside to find jobs in factories. He also recalls the difficult growing conditions of the 1970s, and the changes in attitude towards topics like green harvesting and fruit sorting that have occurred over time.


Lorenzo is clear about his winemaking stance as a Traditional producer, and touches on some of the techniques that separate his winemaking from those who operate in a Modern style. He talks about the changes in popularity for Modern and Traditional wines from the Piemonte, and how those categories have been perceived in the market over time. He also touches on the difficulty of changing one's winemaking style once it has been set. Vineyard work is discussed, and Lorenzo makes a distinction between his different Barolo vineyards (Rocche, Rocchette, and Le Mie Vigne). He contrasts the different attributes of those vineyard sites.


Vintage evaluations are given for many years, stretching back to the 1970s. Lorenzo gives his frank opinions of many vintages, and at times gives his thoughts on ageability as well. Then he discusses some of the difficulties he has experienced when making wines from the Dolcetto grape variety, in contrast to Nebbiolo.


This is a rare opportunity to hear from a Piemonte vintner who lived through World War II, and with that in mind, this episode begins with a history of Italy and of the Piemonte in the later years of that war and after. That was a time when fighting between Fascists and Partisans took a huge human toll, with many deaths. The capsule history then transitions into a discussion of the changes the Piemonte experienced in the second half of the 20th century, as emigration and industrialization changed the environment for wine production. Italian cultural commentators Mario Soldati and Luigi Veronelli are also talked about, as are the changes in winemaking that increasingly began to take hold in the late 1970s and into the 2000s. Those changes gave rise to different winemaking camps in the Piemonte, which are discussed. Eventually the market for the Piemonte wines begins to change, and at the same time there arrives a belated realization that climate change has altered the realities for vine growing in the Piemonte.


This episode also features commentary from:


Martina Barosio, formerly of Scarpa

Nicoletta Bocca, San Fereolo

Beppe Colla (translated by Federica Colla), the ex-owner of Prunotto

Luca Currado, Vietti

Umberto Fracassi Ratti Mentone, Umberto Fracassi

Angelo Gaja, Gaja

Gaia Gaja, Gaja

Maria Teresa Mascarello, Cantina Bartolo Mascarello

Danilo Nada, Nada Fiorenzo

Giacomo Oddero (translated by Isabella Oddero), Poderi Oddero

Federico Scarzello, Scarzello

Aldo Vaira (translated by Giuseppe Vaira), G.D. Vajra

Aldo Vacca, Produttori del Barbaresco

Michael Garner, co-author of Barolo: Tar and Roses

Victor Hazan, author of Italian Wine


Thank You to...

Robert Lateiner and Gregory Dal Piaz for the use of the recording of Lorenzo Accomasso

Carlotta Rinaldi and Giuseppe Vaira for their translation work

Chris Thile for voiceover

Bodhisattwa for the whistling of "Bella Ciao"

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Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

I'm Levy Dalton and this is all drink to that where we get behind the scenes of the wine business. Oh, Lorenzo Aikamasso began helping his family in their vineyards in Lamora in the 1940s and still tends to his small parcels of vines there today.

0:34.8

While most of the famous names of his generation have already passed on.

0:39.3

Bruno Jekosa, Bepecola, Bartolo, Mascarello, Giovanni Cinterno, these people have left us.

0:46.9

But Akamasso isn't just still alive, he's still making wine every year.

0:52.0

And Akamasso describes himself as a member of the extreme

0:55.3

wing of traditional burrola producers once telling me that he had never changed

1:00.4

anything he opts for long skin macerations for Nebbiolo, large Slovenian oak boatee for aging Barolo, and prefers a long maturation before bottling.

1:10.0

He typically releases wines into the market later than his neighbors, and some of his wines still see an elevation in glass demijon in keeping with the old custom of the region.

1:23.6

Well before the pandemic, some friends and I sat with Lorenzo Akamasso in the humble

1:27.8

room where he conducts tastings in his home.

1:31.0

The meeting was recorded and you will hear it coming up. It was a visit, not an interview, and so it would be helpful to have some context for what Akamasso says on that tape with an understanding of the events that have happened during his life.

1:45.0

And so for that we should head down to a Brutso. Specifically to the Grand Sasso, the mountain in the Apennines with one of the highest peaks of Italy, and which, in September

1:56.4

1943, served as the site of the prison of the fascist Benito Mussolini.

2:03.0

World War II had by this point gone very badly for Italy,

2:07.0

and in July 1943, the Allies had both bombed Rome and invaded Sicily.

2:13.5

In response, the King of Italy,

2:16.0

Vittorio Ammanuel, the third,

2:18.0

the person who had originally named Mussolini the Prime Minister

2:21.5

in 1922, stripped Mussolini of his powers in

2:25.0

1943 and had him arrested. In August of 43, Allied soldiers took control of

2:32.3

Sicily and then started moving up the Italian

2:34.9

Peninsula but the German infantry had already begun marching into Italy back in June

...

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