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Isle Royale National Park has always had a way of drawing people back, something about its raw

solitude and silence, the way the thick spruce forests and dark glacial lakes seem to hold

their breath.

Visitors typically mention the wolves and moose, the chilly fog that shrouds the island most

mornings, or the rocky coastlines battered by Lake Superior.

But ask about the remote fire lookout on Feltman Ridge, and the conversations quickly change.

Park staff deflect, seasoned hikers shake their heads and maps suddenly appear incomplete,

with trails abruptly ending before the ridge itself. In the summer of 1998,

I didn't know anything about that lookout. It was my first season as a ranger on Isle Royale.

I'd studied biology, camped plenty, and was confident handling isolated work. My partner,

Aaron Hall, had been a ranger on the island before. Army trained,

efficient, quiet. He was the type who kept a meticulous logbook and rarely smiled unless he meant it.

We arrived at Feltman Ridge by floatplane from Windigo Station on a crystal clear August morning.

The pilot banked hard, descending toward a small

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