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Empire

127. Inventing Curry: The British Taste for India

Empire

Jack Davenport

History

4.64.1K Ratings

🗓️ 29 February 2024

⏱️ 40 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

From the beginning of the Raj, British tastes began to turn away from Indian cuisine towards a European palate. The colonial classes sneered at Indian food, instead seeing French food as the height of sophistication. Meanwhile, people in Britain – including Queen Victoria – sought out Indian flavours and so began the Indianisation of British cuisine. Imports of curry powders rapidly increased and the earliest Indian restaurants popped up in British cities. With this came the introduction of renowned dishes such as chicken tikka masala and coronation chicken. Listen as Anita and William dive into the historical origins of the British obsession with curry. For bonus episodes, ad-free listening, reading lists, book discounts, a weekly newsletter, and a chat community. Sign up at https://empirepod.supportingcast.fm/ Twitter: @Empirepoduk Email: [email protected] Goalhangerpodcasts.com Assistant Producer: Anouska Lewis Producer: Callum Hill Exec Producer: Neil Fearn Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Transcript

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0:00.0

If you want access to bonus episodes reading lists for every series of empire, a chat community,

0:06.7

discounts for all the books mentioned in the week's podcast, add free listening and a weekly

0:11.5

newsletter, sign up to Empire Club at

0:14.4

W.

0:15.1

W. Empire pod UK.com. From the Viceroy to young Clark who at home consumes high tea at sunset, every Englishman in

0:36.1

India solemnly dresses for dinner.

0:38.9

It is as though the integrity of the British Empire depended in some directly magical way upon the donning of black jackets and hard-boiled shirts.

0:47.0

Solitary men in dach bungalows, on coasting steamers and little shanties among tiger-infested woods obey the mystical imperative

0:54.8

every evening of putting on the funereal uniform of English prestige.

0:58.9

Almost more amazing is the other great convention of keeping up European prestige, the convention of eating too much.

1:05.6

Five meals a day, two breakfast, luncheon, afternoon tea and dinner, a standard throughout

1:10.9

India. A sixth is often added in the big towns where there are

1:14.0

theatres and dances to justify late supper. The Indian who eats at most two meals a day,

1:19.0

sometimes only one too often none, is compelled to acknowledge his inferiority.

1:24.5

Perhaps the Indians can only be impressed by our gastronomic prowess.

1:28.8

Our prestige is bound up with overeating.

1:31.2

For the sake of empire, the truly patriotic tourist will sacrifice his liver and his colon,

1:35.7

will pave the way for future apoplexes and cancers of the intestine. I did my best while I was in India, but at the risk of undermining our prestige of bringing the whole imperial

1:45.3

fabric in ruins about my ears, I used from time to time, unobtrusively to skip, of course. The spirit is willing, but the flesh, alas, is weak.

1:56.3

That's wonderful. Who said that?

1:58.3

Olders Huxley, one of my favourite travel diaries of all time, little known and now out of print but it's

2:04.4

called Jesting Pilot their diary of a journey and it's published in about 1924 and

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