4.4 • 2.8K Ratings
🗓️ 25 July 2025
⏱️ 54 minutes
🧾️ Download transcript
Adam Gopnik takes us on a tour of great food writing from the New Yorker in celebration of the magazine's centennial. We hear A.J. Liebling’s tip for finding a good restaurant in Paris, M.F.K. Fisher’s fantasy about potato chips and Calvin Trillin’s obsession over constructing the perfect bagel. Plus, Matt Goulding shares why paella is a hotbed of controversy; we explain why a cold oven is the secret to the best creme brûlée; and Christopher Kimball and Sara Moulton answer your questions and share their favorite things to do with tomatoes.
Get this week’s recipe for Cold-Oven Crème Brûlee here.
Listen to Milk Street Radio on: Apple Podcasts | Spotify
Click on a timestamp to play from that location
0:00.0 | This is Mo Street Radio from PRX, and I'm your host, Christopher Kimball. |
0:08.9 | Today, Adam Gopnik takes us on a tour of great food writing to celebrate the centennial |
0:14.1 | of the New Yorker. We hear what priests know about dining in Paris, as well as the passion of |
0:20.4 | MFK Fisher for champagne and caviar. |
0:23.6 | That's what James Beard described to me once, was a nude meal with Mary Fisher, where what they |
0:30.4 | ate was champagne and caviar. I think on the principle that when you have something that |
0:35.0 | transcendently sensual, all other sensuality can |
0:39.4 | join in. |
0:40.8 | But first, I'm joined by my co-host Sarah Moulton to answer a few of your cooking questions. |
0:46.9 | Sarah is, of course, the star of Sarah's weeknight meals on public television. |
0:50.3 | Her latest book is Home Cooking 101. |
0:54.1 | So, Sarah, we talked a lot about tomatoes here on the show. You, |
0:58.7 | I guess, can get good ones in the season. So I assume you don't really cook them, right? You just |
1:04.4 | serve them raw or what? There's two ways I really like to use them in the summertime. One is in |
1:10.5 | tarts, a tomato tart. |
1:12.6 | That's a good idea. So I slice them about a third of an inch thick, and then I salt them and leave them for 20 minutes, |
1:18.1 | you know, pre-shrinkle and get rid of all that excess liquid. And then there's one tart I make with just a regular pastry dough that you put mustard in and greer cheese and the tomatoes on top, and it's just |
1:29.3 | so delicious. And another one I make with basil, mozzarella and ricotta. Again, salted tomatoes |
1:37.1 | and parm. And it's just yummy. And you puree the basil with the filling and it gets, it's green. |
1:44.2 | But another thing I like to do with tomatoes is to make a tomato vinaigrette and put the |
1:49.3 | tomatoes into the vinaigret. |
1:51.5 | You know, so put it in a blender, really ripe, yummy tomato with some sherry vinegar, |
... |
Transcript will be available on the free plan in 18 days. Upgrade to see the full transcript now.
Disclaimer: The podcast and artwork embedded on this page are from Milk Street Radio, and are the property of its owner and not affiliated with or endorsed by Tapesearch.
Generated transcripts are the property of Milk Street Radio and are distributed freely under the Fair Use doctrine. Transcripts generated by Tapesearch are not guaranteed to be accurate.
Copyright © Tapesearch 2025.